4 min read

Playa del Amor After Dark

Playa del Amor After Dark
A bird's eye view of Playa del Amor, Zipolite, Oaxaca, Mexico

I first heard about Zipolite, Mexico's only legal nude beach, several years ago when I saw a post about its famous nudist festival, which has been happening every February for the past 11 years. But Zipolite's story goes back much further than that. In the 1960s and 70s, it became a gathering place for Mexican and international hippies traveling the Pacific coast. Nudity emerged naturally out of that countercultural ethos of freedom and communal living, long before it was officially recognized. Over time, the town evolved into a rare pocket of tolerated, then protected, difference, gradually becoming both Mexico's only legally recognized nude beach and one of the country's most enduring queer-friendly havens.

This year, I finally decided to go see what all the hype was about.

“Libres como el mar, desnudos como el sol” - Graffiti in Zipolite

So many interesting things have already happened in my short time here that it's impossible to tell you about all of them. I can summarize it by saying that Zipolite is far more than just a nude beach. It's a small town that represents freedom to many Mexicans. Not just freedom to be nude, but the freedom to be your authentic self in peace and relative safety.
Zipolite is not only one of Mexico's top queer-friendly destinations, but also one of the world's most unique LGBTQ+ spaces. While I've been here, the town has hosted the annual Zipolite Nudist Festival, a multi-day celebration of naturism with parades, yoga, and beach gatherings, a swinger hotel takeover at Hotel Nude organized by Naughty Events, the arts-focused Mancha Festival, community-driven queer gatherings like Somos, a Queer Music & Arts Festival blending DJs, beach events, workshops, and nightlife, and ELLA Love Fest, a multi-day festival centered on LGBTQ+ women and diverse identities. During high season, the town feels like a constant haven for body-positive, sex-positive, and queer-friendly gatherings.

A Pride flag hangs from the Nude hotel in Zipolite during ELLA Love Fest.

But apart from all the events, the most well-known daily attraction in Zipolite is Playa del Amor. Before arriving, I'd heard it was a small nude beach at the far end of town where you might occasionally see people having sex. I was completely unprepared for the primal scene that unfolds there every night after sunset. What I've discovered there is one of the world's most unique sex-positive spaces.

So what happens at Playa del Amor after sunset? The best way to find out is to see it for yourself, but it's wild, and it helps to be prepared.

Sunset at Playa del Amor, Zipolite

Most people arrive before sunset to grab a good seat, order drinks at the bar, and socialize during golden hour. There are usually a few hundred people on the beach. At first glance, most appear to be gay men, though women and mixed groups are present too, some couples, some friends, and occasionally someone alone like me, floating through the crowd. About 10% of the crowd is women, and there are usually 3-4 trans people as well. Most people are nude. Some are clearly there out of sexual curiosity; others just want the sunset and the fire-spinning show that follows, often with nude performers.

The (sometimes) nude fire show at Playa del Amor

After the fire show, the performers move through the crowd collecting tips, and something begins to shift. The sexual tension starts to feel palpable. The more adventurous drift toward the darker left side of the beach, around a corner where it becomes shoulder-to-shoulder naked bodies. The implied culture of that space is tactile, people reach for what draws them without asking for consent. If you're not ready to be touched or to actively protect your boundaries, it's better not to enter. Some people cover themselves. Some stay with partners or friends. Others lean in fully.
Very quickly, the crowd transforms into explicit sexual encounters, small circles forming as others watch, the air filling with moans and grunts. It's mostly men, though when a woman enters the crowd, she attracts noticeable attention, revealing that many of the men there are more fluid than initial impressions might suggest. Male-female couples often stay near the edges or in more secluded corners, while those who aren't there for sex remain near the bar in candlelight, occasionally approaching the shadows with curiosity.

The small section of beach to the left, where the magic happens.

That curiosity is where most of us start, myself included. I've found myself returning almost every night, partly to observe, partly to understand what this space reveals about desire, boundaries, and human nature, and partly to see what kind of experiences I can have myself.
It's been enlightening for my understanding of consent, boundaries, and sexual orientation, and for witnessing queer intimacy in such a raw and unfiltered way. I want to share my experiences with those who are curious, so I'm writing a series of posts about my stories here in Zipolite and at Playa del Amor. If you feel intrigued, subscribe and stay tuned! I'll be sharing more soon.